Comeback Kid

Comeback Kid

Olivier Theyskens is re-launching his eponymous brand

It’s been well over 10 years since Olivier Theyskens closed his own label but this autumn will see its revival at Paris Fashion Week. In an interview with the Business of Fashion, the Belgian designer revealed that he has been quietly developing the new line for the past two years.

He first launched his relatively short-lived namesake brand in 1997 and developed his signature for gothic glamour. He soon garnered an enviable celebrity following including Nicole Kidman, Emma Watson, Cate Blanchett and Madonna, who famously attended the 1998 Academy Awards in one of his black satin creations. Theyskens went on to become creative director at Rochas before moving onto Nina Ricci and then Theory.

For this independently-funded re-launch, Theyskens has drafted in LVMH veteran Maximiliano Nicolelli as chief executive, production is based in Italy and they’ll stick to two collections a year sold in select retailers. While keeping tight lipped about any further the details for now, he promises a “magical, extremely artistic approach.”

  • Words: Rebecca Parker

  • Banner Photography: Theysken's Theory A/W 2012