Good grooming

Good grooming

The Toni&Guy session team, headed up by International Artistic Directors Cos Sakkas, Daniele de Angelis, Chie Sato and Kevin Luchmun, set the pace backstage at five key LCM AW16 shows. The most important grooming takeaway? Natural movement reigns

Natural Beauty

Patrick Grant channelled David Stewart from Eurythmics for E.Tautz’ loose, easy collection, which Kevin Luchmun translated in versatile ways. ‘We wanted to create volume and make hair big and bouncy,’ he says. ‘Patrick also wanted each model to be an individual, so we worked with their hair type to create healthy looks.’ The team worked Thickening Tonic through the hair, and then dried it using a label.m Grooming Brush. A small amount  of Deconstructor was applied to create controlled shine followed by a light misting of  label.m Hairspray for flexible hold.

Seventies Showman

Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel revelled in 1970s Mack Daddy tailoring with their decadent, fur-lined offering for boys and the odd girl. This gave Cos Sakkas freedom to create glamour and volume. ‘The hair has an inner city feel to it. The male models wear it  off their faces with natural movement and for the girls think Sharon Stone  in Casino with her deep set wave,’  he says. Hair was prepped with Thickening Tonic; blow-dried using a label.m Cushion Brush and polished with Deconstructor, which was smoothed through mid- to end-lengths.

Red Carpet Ready

Not every fashion show warrants  a red carpet but that’s what greeted guests at the Chester Barrie show at the Waldorf Hilton Hotel. Smart suits were matched by Oscars-ready hair courtesy of Kevin Luchmun. ‘Our brief was to imagine a movie star going to his premiere, so hair should be matt and groomed.’ After applying label.m Volume Mousse, hair was blow-dried using a label.m Styling Brush. A small amount of Max Wax was worked through to create separation and shine, and then fixed with label.m Texturising Volume Spray.

Double-Duty Dapper

Within the suitably grand surroundings of The Arts Club in Mayfair, models lined up to present Hardy Amies’ take on contemporary menswear. The Savile Row mainstay, headed up by Darren Barrowcliff, presented a series of exquisitely tailored looks. Daniele de Angelis was backstage. ‘We went for a groomed yet organic look for day progressing to really slick hair for evening,’ he says. ‘We prepped hair with label.m Volume Mousse and blow- dried it with a label.m Cushion Brush. Next we applied Sculpting Pomade to create hold and polish and finished with label.m Hairspray.’

Money Talks

Matthew Miller redefined the nouveau riche for AW16 by depicting Caravaggio’s David and Goliath on ecclesiastical silhouettes. Models’ hair ranged from halos of ginger curls to perfect Afros thanks to Chie Sato and her team. ‘We created soft, uniform waves to contrast with the angular outfits. This is hair that looks “done” but not trashy,’ she says.  Hair was dampened using Thickening Tonic and label.m Sea Salt Spray. A label.m Detangling Comb directed hair from the crown and label.m Setting Clips pinned curls. After gently being diffused dry, residual frizz was tamed with Grooming Cream.

  • Words: Helen Jennings

  • Photography: Beccy Nuthall,