london fashion week men’s aw19

london fashion week men’s aw19

At London Fashion Week Men’s, the Toni&Guy Session Team set next season’s hair trends

As the first fashion week of the year and the opening event of the season, London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) is always under pressure to perform – and the city’s dynamic design crop did not dissapoint as they expressed a slightly quieter, more commercially savvy side for AW19. Nicholas Daley and Bianca Saunders presented sartorially assured collections that were beautifully constructed, and crucially, incredibly wearable. Meanwhile, fashion’s reigning golden boy Charles Jeffrey displayed kilts and his trademark tartan tailoring, which was laced with subversive connotations and Scottish patriotism.

Over at Paria/Farzaneh, the NEWGEN star continued to impress as she explored the intersection of her Iranian heritage with her Yorkshire birthplace by incorporating paisley fabrics into the workwear silhouettes that she’s fast becoming renowned for. Making use of more technical fabrics for winter, this young talent’s show also served as a plea to exist in the moment, as models, transfixed by their phones, stood on a conveyor belt that delivered them to a transparent box at the end of the catwalk. To compliment her collection, Toni&Guy International Artistic Director Luke Harris created wet-look hair inspired by American Psycho’s Patrick Bateman.

For their first outing at LFWM, New York-based brand Private Policy presented a collection commenting on western capitalist economies. A cast of ‘workers’, such as robbers, police officers and bankers, walked the runway dressed in garments crafted from rich wools, sumptuous velvets and workwear-inspired denim. To get the models into character, Toni&Guy International Artistic Director Daniele De Angelis created hairstyles ranging from rebelliously unconventional, deconstructed and tousled, to slicked-back and preppy.

At E.Tautz, Patrick Grant presented a collection that was gentle, elegant and replete with exquisite tailoring. Continuing the theme of understated patriotism, Grant crafted the collection in its entirety from beautiful British fabrics. Toni&Guy International Artistic Director Charlie Cullen created a perfect hair match with a contemporary reworking of 80s styles, embracing each model’s natural looks for a cool, relaxed feel.

Gentlemanly tailoring also took centre stage at Velsvoir, where the brand’s trademark traditional aesthetic was translated into bold, sleek silhouettes presented in shades of black, charcoal, midnight blue and navy. This modern dandy look was mirrored by Head of Team Louis Maharaj’s hair styling, who created rockstar waves and tactile curls.

Band of Outsiders presented a collection that was rich in autumnal splendour. Burnt oranges sat alongside burgundy, olive and brown, with shapes taking inspiration from the 1950s moon landing era aesthetic. Toni&Guy International Artistic Director Dexter Johnson complimented this interstellar nostalgia with minimalist waves and soft-textured hairstyles.

  • Words: Miriam Bouteba