London Fashion Week Men’s
Discover the dynamic trends from London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) where the Toni & Guy Session Team forecast the hair for the season ahead
Pinstripe corsets, haute fancy dress, fluro satin slips and rave-flyer printed shirts – London Fashion Week Men’s SS19 shows envisioned a new form of masculinity that was truly malleable, self-defined and boundary-breaking. As ever, the city’s fearless design crop didn’t hold back: gritty rebel youth references made up Martine Rose’s runway-show-cum-street-party, while suave suits were layered with rope-tie bodices and leather halternecks at Daniel w. Fletcher, marking the London-based designer as this season’s quiet subversive.
Clothing was romantic, discreet but no less cutting-edge at Bianca Saunders’ LFWM debut. Familiar materials such as nylon, jersey and cotton were revised with cinching and creasing to create an effeminate fit.
“The [Gestures] collection is about challenging masculinity and its tropes,” says Saunders. “It almost borders on femininity but is still very strong on its masculine side.”
Toni&Guy Artistic Director, Dexter Johnson, mirrored this softness backstage by maintaining natural hair textures, and prepping waves and braids with new label.m Anti-Frizz Lotion for increased definition.
Over at Paria Farzaneh, the Iranian New Year inspired the sandy neutrals and rich paisley patterns that elevated sporty silhouettes and traditional workwear. A giant truck housed her creations, which included jackets and windbreakers with carefully positioned zips to personalise the shape. This was complemented with thick tousled locks and short quiffs, loosely texturised with label.m Sea Salt Spray – as envisioned by Toni&Guy International Artistic Director, Luke Harris.
While experimentation was definitely the order of the day, classic gentlemanly garms were not lost in the mix. Strong, contemporary tailoring defined Velsvoir’s collection, with sharp suits and nautical pinstripe separates harking back to the sporting pursuits of the 1900s. An unlikely hair match was found in 90s subculture, with Head of Team, Louis Maharaj, introducing grunge elements by slicking back hair while leaving loose strands around the face.
St James’s also played with dapper charm, favouring neutral tones on traditional fits, accessorised with natural hair boosted with label.men Thickening Tonic, as styled by Toni&Guy International Artistic Director, Daniele De Angelis. Elsewhere, E. Tautz adopted a palette of primaries and pastels for its homage to the UK’s textile regions, using cotton woven in Lancashire and yarn spun in Manchester. A lived-in look was created by Toni&Guy International Artistic Director, Charlie Cullen, using label.m Matt Paste to give texture and movement as inspired by 60s styling.