LC:M London Collection's Men A/W 14: Highlights

LC:M London Collection's Men A/W 14: Highlights

Now in it’s fourth season, London Collections: Men is established internationally as an essential menswear showcase.

From January 6th to 8th, a line-up of A/W 14 shows and installations around the city centre took in global brands such as Burberry and Tom Ford, Savile Row stalwarts including Richard James and Gieves & Hawkes, London stars the likes of Jonathan Saunders and Richard Nicoll and young upstarts aplenty. Proof indeed that London is the natural home of men’s designer fashion.

The Toni&Guy session teams were busy backstage at five key events. Headed up by Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Kevin Luchmun, here’s the inside track:

Baartman's & siegel

London College of Fashion 2010 alumni Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel share a love of smart yet casual menswear. Now known for their statement outerwear, A/W14 didn't disappoint with a strong offering of fur-trimmed parkers, padded bombers and grown up woolen overcoats. These were worn with slim suits and sporty separates in a palette of black and blue.

GET THE LOOK

E. TAUTZ

Patrick Grant brings Norton & Son’s Savile Row tailoring to the award-winning brand E. Tautz. This season he was inspired by William Hogarth’s A Rake’s Progress, which depicts the fall of a Georgian gentleman. The show started off with a series of subdued black and tweed suits and oversized trench coats but soon unraveled into a glorious display of red shiny jackets, super baggy trousers, military insignia, wild embroideries and paisley prints.

GET THE LOOK

MATTHEW MILLER

This Royal College of Art graduate first showed with Fashion East before gaining his first solo show in 2012. He has built a favourable reputation for exploration of performance fabrics, tailoring and sportswear. A/W 14’s collection, entitled Politics Of Me, was about “angst and anger, but also hope,” says Miller. The dark and utilitarian range of biker jackets, patchwork trousers, boxy tops and blazers were covered in anarchic and emotional texts about the state of modern life.

GET THE LOOK

ORLEBAR BROWN

The luxury swimwear brand was founded by photographer Adam Brown in 2007 and gained kudos when Daniel Craig wore a pair of OB trunks in Skyfall. At LC:M Orlebar Brown transformed a Mayfair gallery into a jungle, both of the tropical and urban variety. At the front of the space models posed among palm trees wearing birds of paradise, flamingo and foliage print shorts and t-shirts. At the back, downtown NYC was re-created as men slouched against street lamps wearing puffa jackets, polo necks tops and chinos in muted shades.

GET THE LOOK

ROXANNE FARAHMAND

Raw talent incubator Fashion East took jeweller Roxanne Farahmand under its ample wing this season alongside Liam Hodges, Tom Ryling, Massimo Casagrande and Nicomede Talavera. Its menswear installation in association with Red Bull Catwalk Studio paired the London College of Fashion graduate with Glasgow bass producer Nightwave to present In Shining Armor. Boy racers posed on the bonnet and seats of a car wearing Farahmand’s burnished chains, finger guards, dagger earrings and body straps.

GET THE LOOK

  • Words: Helen Jennings