A New Generation
Everything you need to know about the British Fashion Council's prestigious NEWGEN recipients
Since its inception in 1993, the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN scheme has helped to recognise emerging talent within the fashion industry (think Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Meadham Kirchhoff) and provide a financial springboard for up and coming London-based designers to raise their profile on a global scale.
The BFC have announced the 2017/2018 recipients which, for the first time, will encompass both menswear and womenswear. We give you the low-down on the names you need to know...
Fusing punk, military influences and hip-hop, Liam Hodges is fast becoming known for his frank approach to dressing - making wearable clothes for men (just ‘not ones that drive Volvos’). Expect to see lots more pockets and quilted puffa jackets heading your way. Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty of Cottweiler also pay attention to their social environment, producing forward-thinking takes on classic silhouettes, as does Nicholas Daley, whose designs pay homage to Britain’s subcultures past and present. Continuing the zeitgeist is A-COLD-WALL*, a brand that draws influence from British street culture to create clothing, accessories and bags that have a rough urban vibe.
Meanwhile Central Saint Martins grad Grace Wales Bonner fuses embroidery, jewellery and African crafts to produce collections that have an air of modern-day dandy. Proving slouchy separates are here to stay is Kiko Kostadinov and Phoebe English MAN – their AW17 collections are full of oversized jackets and wide-leg trousers cinched in with nonchalantly tied belts. Added into the mix is Charles Jeffrey, designer, illustrator and radical creative whose LOVERBOY label is gloriously eccentric and off-the-wall. Aliens and fertility goddesses. Yes, really.
This year’s womenswear NEWGEN recipients unashamedly embrace femininity, Molly Goddard plays with dainty frills and ruffles with a mix of pastel and primary colourways in relaxed silhouettes, while Paula Knorr and Marta Jakubowski both use cut-out detailing to redefine the female gaze. Sadie Williams works with delicate satins and luxe velvet to produce collections that are just longing to be touched and Halpern’s jewel toned sequined ensembles usher in a new dawn of luxe. Other entries include Richard Quinn, whose full bodysuits provide the perfect blank canvas for a natty unabashed wallpaper-like print, and Richard Malone who finds inspiration in the ordinary - think Argos uniforms and plastic carrier bags.