London Collections Men Report: SS17
Contemporary reincarnations of 80s rave culture and 90s grunge took centre stage at the SS17 shows. We round up our favourite looks
Chester Barrie took his cues from the conventional British garden party with lightweight tailoring and a muted colour palette reflecting the true Savile Row gentleman. Hair was left soft with natural volume to create a relaxed summer vibe. The Session Team misted label.m Sea Salt Spray onto dry hair to emphasise its natural texture. Locks were then spritzed with label.men Thickening Tonic for hold and then label.men Deconstructer was added to create soft hold that left room for movement.
Football served inspiration for Patrick Grant’s Sunday Best collection for E.Tautz that featured stripes, baggy suits and anoraks. Hair was inspired by the 1980s River Pheonix era when hair was encouraged to be voluminous with plenty of natural movement. To achieve the look label.m Grooming Cream was worked through hair with fingers before the roots were blasted with a hairdryer to increase height. Lastly, label.m hairspray was sprayed onto the palm of the hand and smoothed over the sides of the hair to eliminate any flyaway strands.
Traditional tailoring was given a modern update at Hardy Amies, combining mature masculinity and Savile Row heritage with youthful attitude to portray the ultimate hero. Longer haired models wore a slicked back look with gentle waves, while those with shorter styles were keep clean with a soft side parting. To create the look hair was primed with label.m Volume Mousse before label.men Sculpting Pomade was worked through stands to add shine.
Henry Holland payed homage to the 90s and the halcyon days of Manchester’s iconic club The Haçienda, presenting a collection of brash denim, nostalgic food slogan graphics and oversized bling medallions. Hair was given a gritty feel with label.m Grooming Cream before label.m Sculpting Pomade was applied to add shine and extra hold. One final spritz with label.m Hold & Gloss Spray and hair was dance-floor ready.
Models stalked Jermyn Street’s open air catwalk in luxury tailoring that showcased both traditional menswear staples alongside contemporary cuts and finishes in a show that represented the quintessential British gentleman. Hair was clean, polished yet relaxed. This was achieved by prepping with label.m Volume Mousse (to create touchable texture) before label.m Sea Salt Spray was lightly misted to give added lift. Then label.men Deconstructor was used to finish, giving extra definition and flexible hold.
Bleached denim and 90s culture influenced Matthew Miller’s SS17 collection which was infused with an air of subtle rebellion. Long, unkempt hair was an obvious nod to Kurt Cobain and the grunge era. The Session Team sprayed Label.m Sea Salt Spray through hair before scrunching it in sections as it was roughly blow dried, generating a natural lived in texture. Afterwards, label.men Thickening Tonic was applied to individual strands to create separation around the face.