LONDON FASHION WEEK REPORT: S/S16
The Spring/summer '16 shows mixed effortless glamour with a carefree attitude. Here are our highlights from London's best offerings
Ashley Isham conjured up images of exotic holidays with a collection full of fun and energy. Bold floral prints, floaty feminine dresses, cinched in waistlines and colourful swimwear was paraded down the catwalk. Hair gave off an air of ‘rich girl gone wild’ with voluminous crimping.
Giles Deacon is renown for utilizing historical influences in his collections and SS16 was no different. Satin and organza gowns made their way down the catwalk at the Elizabethan Banqueting Room in Whitehall. Disheveled hair and haphazard braids hinted at nights of partying and dancing.
Henry Holland’s ‘Fear and loathing in Las Vegas’ inspired collection was a mix of psychedelic prints and colours, projecting an eclectic mirage. Florals patterns, feathered shoes and bug broaches completed the hallucinogenic ensemble. Hair had a lived-in feel, reminiscent of days spent traipsing across the desert.
Label.m sea salt spray and soufflé created the multi-texture look.
James Kelly’s SS16 collection was at one with nature, presenting earthy army uniform inspired colours, mixed with embroidered moss detailing and sand coloured trench coats, providing a utility aesthetic. Sheer fabrics contrasted against the otherwise masculine collection, with wet look hair representing Kelly’s girl lost in the forest theme.
Jean-Pierre Braganza presented his ‘whiplashed’ collection, showcasing a range of plunging necklines, draped satin and geometric prints in a simple monochrome colour scheme, punctuated with punchy primary hues. Hair was Bauhaus inspired, symbolizing functional beauty, styled into carefree waves and finished with a powerful centre parting.
Judy Wu portrayed her artistic flair with a unique interpretation of what it means to be feminine. Her cleverly constructed folds were a prominent feature in the garments, draping the model’s bodies in her preferred colour pallet of mint, coral and metallics. Volume was created in the front sections of the hair, with matte wispy strands left loose, making their way to haphazard buns.
Lulu Liu told the story of flamenco, coupled with her traditional Chinese aesthetic, pitting Western passion and lust against the mystery and undisclosed desires of the East. Combining the best of both cultures, Lulu Liu managed to create a collection that appeals to a multitude of different personalities. Hair took the form of simple loose waves, allowing the clothes to take the spotlight.
Pam Hogg’s ‘Lawless’ collection fused three elements to generate a unique aesthetic. Cowboy, Latin and Indian, and Spanish were combined to produce a theatrical tribal finish. More was definitely more, with braids, kiss curls and rolls all making an appearance. Label.m gel was used to secure baby hairs, with a spritz of label.m hairspray to hold everything in place.
Paul Costelloe’s SS16 collection drew inspiration from 1960’s Paris. Structured silhouettes were juxtaposed with contemporary fabrics such as neoprene to catapult the collection into the modern day. Volume Mousse created gravity defying height, whilst label.m Therapy Mist was used to create a luxe finish.
Beautifully crafted organza was the main feature of Katie Roberts Wood’s collection. Peplum dresses, flared trousers and maxi dresses were finished with ruffles, whilst skirts, crop tops and leather made their way down the catwalk in soft leather, detailing taking shape in the form of a basket weaving technique. Contrast was produced with slicked down fringes and spiky updos.
‘Cherry Blossom Dream’ was the title of Rohmir’s SS16 show and certainly captured the elegance and beauty of traditional Japanese culture. Models bowed and exchanged accessories, alluding to the ancient Japanese ritual of gift-giving. Beautiful luxe fabrics drifted down the catwalk with hair mimicking the decadence of the collection, with seductive side swept curls.
Tata Naka’s SS16 collection represented South American culture, drawing inspiration from the iconic Frida Kahlo. Clothes made a statement in bold primary colours mixed with handloom metallics. Hair was twised into irregular knots at the top of the head to recreate the rags often worn in South American culture. Label.m Resurrection Dust gave volume while Rejuvenating Oil Mist gave a glossy, soft finish.