The Finer Details
Pay close attention, Gents: to make the ultimate sartorial statement this winter, you need to let your accessories wear you…
From left to right:
E. Tautz, Dior Homme, Richard Nicholl, Burberry Prosum, David Gandy
Take your cue from rakish 18th Century gents or 70s rock stars with nonchalantly knotted neckwear this season. Fringed silk dress scarves in muted colour pairings were glimpsed beneath double-breasted jackets at E.Tautz, while at Chester Barrie, knotted cravats were de rigueur. To upgrade weekendwear, take notes from the expertly styled accessories at 3.1 Phillip Lim, where Hermès-style printed square neck scarves added interest and a touch of luxe to casual oversized biker jackets and parkas.
The pocket-square cemented its status as a firm fashion favourite, championed by faithful convert and FROW favourite David Gandy. Rarely was a blazer or suit jacket left unadorned, both on and off the catwalk. Keep it contemporary and avoid precision folding – the look should be louche not uniform. Simply scrunch the pocket square into the top pocket and pull out a little. And never, ever match your pocket square to your suit or tie – it’s the male equivalent of matching your shoes to your handbag… gasp.
It’s a case of fashion meeting function, falling in love and living happily ever after this season with the gloriously useful document folder now taking up residence in the arm crooks of the super-stylish. Practical, functional and business-like, the folio epitomises effortless dress and is a sure-fire outfit upgrade. The catwalk kept it low-key and contemporary – luxe snakeskin at Lanvin and boxy shapes at 3.1 Philip Lim, while the overall finish at Dior Homme was pretty much like the suits: sleek and skinny.
Mannish tote bags have been on the radar for a while now, but A/W 14 sees them reinvented in gargantuan proportions. From vibrantly patterned Ikat bags at Burberry Prorsum to plaited leather totes at Bottega Veneta, bigger is clearly better. Gieves & Hawkes favoured gold hardware detail while Christopher Raeburn’s enormous monochrome carry-ons were carefully coordinated with equally voluminous outerwear. Size really does matter, boys.
Designers put their best foot forward with a high-shine, look-at-me offering of patent and embellished loafers. Follow Richard Nicoll’s example and pay homage to the future with metallic silver, burgundy and burnished bronze or lift a sober suit on a grey day with a pair of zingy citrus lace-ups. Traditionalists may favour tasteful accents such as horsebit hardware, rivet detailing or unusual stitching. The choice is yours, as long as you walk the line and let your shoes do the talking.