London Collections: MEN

London Collections: MEN

Toni&Guy were on the fashion front line at the recent London Men’s Collections — here’s a sneak preview of next year’s biggest looks

HARDY AMIES

The Hardy Amies S/S 15 presentation offered up a pastel-toned dream of loose blazers, chinos and unbuttoned shirts reminiscent of the Kennedy brothers yachting off Cape Cod. Mehmet Ali, design director at the Savile Rowe label worked subtle plaid patterns in that were inspired by Hardy’s personal interiors. Off-duty chambray fabrics and nonchalantly draped scarves lent a louche feel to proceedings while hair was swept away from the face in a relaxed side-part.

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MATTHEW MILLER

Matthew Miller drew inspiration from wartime conflict for his S/S 15 “introversion” collection, incorporating heavy political slogans on de-mob suits, faint chalky pinstripes and a bleak colour palette of navy and grey. Heads were shorn with standard issue undercuts or slick wet-look fringes.

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ORLEBAR BROWN

The Orelebar Brown presentation caused quite a stir with tanned torsos and a selection of cute dogs on parade. A beachside theme was embraced with gusto: loose linen shirts, tailored separates made from toweling material and summer staple espadrilles, all in saturated sunset colours and worn with light, textured, carefree quiffs.

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E.TAUTZ

E. Tautz looked no further than the British seaside for next Spring’s offering. Borrowing heavily from Tony Ray Jones’ A Day Off sequence, it referenced anarchic mod style with silk-nylon parkas and sharp suiting while exaggerated deck chair stripes gave a fresh feel. Utilitarian style heavy selvedge denim paid homage to working class roots of the mod movement, taking shape in shorts, jeans and blousons. Hair was brushed forward in signature 60s style, falling heavy on the face or softly parted to the side.

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BAARTMANS & SIEGEL

Baartmans and Siegel impressed with a collection that appeared to be urban sportswear meets Charlie Sheen in Platoon. Windcheaters, perforated bomber jackets and classic Tees surprised in super-luxe fabrics and khaki and forest green colour palette kept a uniform feel. Hair was warrior-like: long, loose and sweaty, held off the face with customized bandanas.

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